A Most Desirable Location-Villa del Balbianello

Perched dramatically on a wooded promontory above Lake Como are the gardens of Villa del Balbianello.  Walking upwards on the serpentine stone paths, my view alternated between lush greenery and vivid blue lake with each turn.

I struggled to choose where to look: up into the glorious trees, out over the lake, or turn my back to the lake and look at the sculptural masterpieces of the gardens.  

Perhaps the most iconic features are the extraordinary plane trees, whose branches are pruned into elaborate candelabra forms, creating living colonnades. The elegant umbrella canopies of dark green were holm oak trees, a variety that is evergreen. Green dominates the garden, cooling visitors as we eagerly explore.

The architectural features of the garden dominate as you approach it from the lake. Here, you can see the variety of elevations of the house and garden. You know you are about to see something very special. Even for visitors who aren’t inspired by plants, this setting generates awe. 

The creation of such a garden requires artistry, passion, money, and time. It began in 1783, when a Cardinal of the Catholic Church built his residence here. 100 years later, Giuseppe Arconati Visconti gave the property to his wife so he could flee the country and avoid arrest. Another century passed, and after prolonged neglect, an American General marched in to modernize the electrical and heating systems.  What we see today is the creation and care of Guido Monzzino, who purchased the property in 1974.  He was an explorer and adventurer with capital. He led expeditions to Africa, Greenland, the Andes, Karakorum*, the Himalayas and the Arctic Circle.  He lavished care on the property to house his collection of memorabilia. (Seriously, everybody brings home souvenirs.)

Upon his death, and with his fortune, the property is now under the care of the Italian National Trust. After traveling the world, this beautiful location was the place he called home. The history shows the location has been coveted and desirable for centuries.

Lake Como’s mild microclimate  and natural beauty seduce visitors and residents alike.  Wisteria drapes itself over the loggia with its graceful arches framing the view of the lake.  Pathways and parterres are structured by Boxwood hedges, creating a walk of green to guide visitors. Tours of the house tell the story of Monzzino’s exhibitions. 

The few hours I spent wandering this garden gave me the opportunity to luxuriate in its beauty without the stress of pruning, planning, and taxes.  For that, I say “Grazie” to the Italian National Trust.